Djusie's skincare philosophy

Djusie’s skincare philosophy is based on having a ‘juicy’ skin – plump, bright and vibrant, both inside and out. Sounds good, but what does luscious skin really mean and what does it require from skincare products? And what role do the layers deeper than the surface play in the well-being of the skin?

 

The cornerstones of a juicy skin are optimal hydration, a maintained pH balance and a strong protective barrier. The first two mentioned affect the third, i.e. the protective barrier of the skin. Let’s take a closer look at the protective barrier, what its functions are and what it consists of.

The functions of the protective barrier:

1. Protects the skin from harmful substances and external pathogens, such as bacteria.
2. Prevents water from evaporating from the skin – sufficient hydration is the basis of healthy skin.

What does the protective barrier consist of:

1. The cells of the top layer of the skin, i.e. the stratum corneum, meaning the corneocytes and the keratin inside them
2. The fatty substances between the corneocytes, especially ceramides and free fatty acids and cholesterols
3. A hydrolipidic film consisting of two parts: a water-soluble part and a fat-soluble part. The water-soluble part contains, among other liquids, sweat and the substances contained in the skin’s Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF). The fat-soluble part contains sebum, as well as the remains of the fatty substances produced in the keratinization process. An acidic pH is essential for the hydrolipidic film.

In addition, the skin’s microbiome forms part of a healthy protective barrier and it is important that it remains diverse, with no one individual bacterial species dominating too heavily.

The prerequisite for the formation of a protective barrier is that the skin’s keratinization process functions well, because the fatty substances between the cells of the top layer and the skin’s NMF are created in the skin’s keratinization process.

What is the skin’s NMF?

The skin’s NMF, Natural Moisturizing Factor, is produced when keratinocytes differentiate into corneocytes (this is the process of keratinization) through the breakdown of a protein called filaggrin. Filaggrin binds together keratin fibers, known as tonofilaments, in a grid-like structure in which the cells are flattened, i.e. reach their final shape, in the stratum corneum. Once this form is reached, the filaggrin breaks down into the substances that form the NMF. These include free amino acids, lactic acid and other substances that typically draw in water. In this way, they hydrate the corneocytes and make them bulge and push against each other – thus making the skin’s protective barrier tight, meaning that harmful substances cannot penetrate it. The substances contained in the NMF are also typically acids and therefore important for maintaining the skin’s acidic pH.

Acidic pH and the optimal hydation

An acidic pH (around 3.8-5.8) and optimal hydration are important for the well-being of the skin, as they maintain the skin’s enzyme activity, which is important for the desquamation of skin cells from the surface of the skin and thus for healthy skin. Enzymes break down the bonds between the cells on the surface of the stratum corneum so that they can desquamate while keeping the surface intact. These enzymes need enough water to remain active, therefore the moisture content of the skin must be sufficient.

If enzyme activity is disturbed, the protective barrier will not remain intact and the skin’s surface will become tight, scaly and rough. When the enzymes work normally, they are maintaining the plasticity of the stratum corneum and keeping it strong. When this is the case, the skin will also be smooth and clear. In addition, an acidic pH creates good conditions for a diverse and balanced microbiome.

The importance of skincare products

In conclusion: skincare products support the functions of the skin, i.e. the keratinization process, so that the hydration level of the skin is maintained, the pH is balanced and the protective barrier is strong – ensuring that the skin remains ‘juicy’. Skincare products cannot have much of an effect on the processes that take place deeper within the skin, because the raw materials contained in the products cannot, with a few exceptions, be absorbed deeper than the epidermis.

Skincare products therefore focus on caring for the epidermis and especially supporting the formation of protective barrier. Djusie’s skincare philosophy and products are designed with this in mind.

Djusie’s products support the skin’s functions

An optimal hydation and pH balance and a strong barrier function are built on three important basic pillars:

1. Gentle cleansing of the skin

A gentle cleanser is used to clean the skin. It must not disturb the skin’s pH and or strip away the skin’s protective hydrolipidic film and fatty substances. Therefore, the best choice for cleansing is an oil cleanser or a gentle cleansing cream or milk.

2. Abundant hydration and support of the acidic pH

The skin needs adequate amount of hydration. An essence is the best choice. Hydration must be bound to the surface of the skin, which is why an essence contains water binding humectants. The pH of the essence must be acidic and may also contain a moderate concentration of AHA or other acids to support the functioning of the keratinization process and the normal desquamation of the skin cells. If a product containing a moderate acid content is used daily there is no need to exfoliate the skin with strong acid peels, which are not gentle on the skin and can damage the protective barrier.

3. Protecting the skin from transepidermal water loss

The skin is protected so that water does not evaporate from it and the protective barrier is strengthened with fats. The most effective product for this is a high-quality facial oil made from cold-pressed plant oils.

Do you need other skincare products?

Three products – a cleansing oil, an essence and a facial oil – form the basis of a skincare routine. Other products, such as moisturizers, serums, eye creams and masks are complementary products that are used depending on the needs of the skin. They can be used to fine-tune the routine, for example when treating skin imbalances, or when the skin’s needs change due to external conditions.

How do the layers deeper than the skin’s surface affect the condition of the skin?

The effectiveness of even the best skincare products is limited to treating the uppermost layers of the skin – and this is how it should be, because cosmetic products should not be absorbed deeper into the tissues or the bloodstream. However, the well-being of the tissues deeper than the skin’s surface has a substantial effect on the condition of the skin. Good blood circulation and the flow of lymphatic fluids play a central role in the skin’s supply of oxygen and nutrients and thus in skin regeneration. The functioning of the lymphatic system affects inflammatory factors and the well-being and hydration of tissues.

Tension in the connective tissues and facial muscles lowers the tissue hydration, elasticity and overall metabolism of the tissues and thus affects the appearance of the skin and face. Long-term tension, reduced hydation and a poorly functioning lymphatic system can manifest on the face as a general lack of vitality, which may appear as premature ageing, sagging skin, the deepening of lines, pimples, puffiness, cloudiness or conditions indicating skin imbalances, such as acne or rosacea.

Tissues deeper than the surface of the skin – subcutaneous tissue, muscles, blood circulation and lymphatic circulation – can be affected manually, i.e. by treating the tissues through dry cupping or dry brushing, for example. This is why Djusie’s skincare philosophy includes various manual treatments.

Djusie’s manual techniques for the well-being of the skin

1. Facial massage with connective tissue manipulation

Along with the use of Djusie’s cleansing and facial oils, Djusie provides facial massage instructions based on connective tissue manipulation; these involve slow and long-lasting movements that, crucially, place mechanical tension on the tissue. This technique releases tension from the connective tissues, improving their hydration and elasticity. This enhances metabolism, reduces swelling and helps the skin to regenerate more effectively. Fibroblast cells, which produce collagen, elastin and the ground substance of extracellular matrix (one of the most important components of which is hydration-binding hyaluronic acid), respond to this mechanical tension, pressure, movement and manipulation. The skin thus remains firmer and more elastic, and looks more vibrant with regular facial massage.

2. Facial dry cupping

Facial dry cupping is a form of connective tissue manipulation based on negative pressure and the suction created by the cup. Dry cupping makes more space in the connective tissues, which improves blood circulation, lymph fluid flow and metabolism. Tensions are softened, because cupping softens the thickened extracellular matrix and lowers its viscosity.

The extracellular matrix is similar to gelatine or egg white, and has the ability to change consistency from solid-like and thick to gel-like and more fluid – this is called thixotropy. It acts as a lubricant between the connective tissue layers and at the interfaces of different structures, allowing the tissues to slide smoothly against each other. In addition, the cells metabolize through it. The extracellular matrix is characteristically firm at rest, i.e. a lack of movement causes it to thicken and solidify.

Dry cupping is an excellent way to stimulate the extracellular matrix, smooth gliding of connective tissues and the flow of fluids, so that fluids don’t remain stagnant in the space between the cells, creating swelling. When tensions are released and the tissues soften, lymphatic fluids and blood flow better. The skin regenerates more efficiently, swelling decreases and facial features become clearer.

Djusie’s dry cupping set contains three cups of different sizes, made from medical-grade silicone in Finland to Djusie’s own design.

3. Dry brushing

Dry brushing can be done in different ways; it can be used to invigorate the blood circulation, boost exfoliate the dead skin cells or enhance lymph drainage. The purpose of Djusie’s face and body dry brushing ritual is to enhance lymph drainage. Therefore, it is important that the brushing is carried out in accordance with the instructions.

A well-functioning lymphatic system plays an important role in terms of the well-being of the skin and the whole body. It regulates the fluid balance of the tissues; removes excess fluid and proteins from the tissues; filters cell debris, bacteria, viruses and other unwanted substances from the fluids; and, finally, returns the fluids back to blood circulation. The lymphatic system also participates in immune defense.

A smoothly functioning lymphatic system is important for the well-being of the skin for everyone, regardless of age. Stagnation in lymph flow reduces skin regeneration, as the cells do not receive the necessary oxygen and nutrients, which in turn generates free radicals and inflammation. This causes lines to deepen and the skin to start to sag. Facial swelling also occurs if lymph drainage is reduced. Lymph drainage plays a key role in the treatment of all skin imbalance conditions, such as acne, rosacea and atopic dermatitis.

One third of the lymph nodes that filter lymph fluids are located around the clavicles, face and neck area, especially around the eyes, ears, nose and mouth, where pathogens have direct access to the body. In addition to the neck, lymph nodes occur in larger groups in the armpits, chest, groin, abdomen and pelvis. It is important to keep these points open and active, because pathogens and unwanted substances are filtered from the lymph fluid in the lymph nodes. The lymphatic system is often compared to a sewer network.

Dry brushing affects the superficial lymphatic system, which collects fluid from the skin and subcutaneous tissues. Brushing moves the lymph fluid to the lymph nodes along the lymph vessels. The superficial lymph capillaries and vessels are located just below the surface of the skin – therefore brushing needs to be gentle and the skin should not become red.

Before brushing, the most important lymph nodes must always be opened, which is done manually by manipulating and moving the surface of the skin. Imagine a clogged sink full of water. If you just stir the water without unblocking the drain, the water won’t go anywhere. For this reason, the lymph nodes must first be opened and the brushing done only after that.

Dry brushing should always be carried out after showering, not before. This is because the heat of the water increases the filtration of fluids from the capillaries into the tissues. The purpose of brushing is to remove excess fluid from the tissues, and the heat reverses this effect.

Djusie’s high-quality dry brushes for the face and body are made sustainably and responsibly from natural materials at a German brush factory with more than 100 years of experience.

Further reading:

Understanding the Role of Natural Moisturizing Factor in Skin Hydration

Find out more about filaggrin